Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Golden Day in Kyoto

Our plans today were to traverse Kyoto from the far north-west to the south-east taking in two spectacular sights - Kinkakuji and Fushimi Inari Taisha all whilst looking for kimonos and fans! Again the local bus, #101 seemed like the best option to take us to our first place of interest Kinkakuji. Unfortunately it arrived on time but we were unable to squeeze in. The trailing #12 was also too full get in.

With the snowflakes once again falling thickly, we changed plans and hopped on to the rather empty #9 which was going in a similar direction. A short while later, we arrived at the Nishijin Textile Centre in search of the elusive kimonos. We finally struck gold with both girls choosing a beautiful kimono. After being fitted, we timed it perfectly to watch a Kimono show!


Back outside, the snowflakes were clearing and the sun even threatened to shine as we boarded our 2nd bus for the morning (the 101 again) bound for Kinkakuji. It was a short walk following the masses to this well-known temple.

Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavillion looked spectacular in the snow and sunshine! It was a bit of a fight getting to the front of the crowd in order to take photos overlooking the partially frozen Mirror Lake but it was well worth it. This Zen temple has been rebuilt several times since 1400's most recently in 1955 after it was burnt down by a young fanatic monk. The top two stories of this beautiful building are covered in pure gold leaf. Gold was thought to purify any negative thoughts towards death.



The one-way path continued around and behind this wonderful temple before meandering through the  snow covered zen designed gardens and depositing us back outside.

From here it was another short bus ride to the train station, followed by two small train trips to get to Fushimia Inari Taisha. Before tackling this next walk, Andy led us to a great coffee spot, Vermillion, a Melbourne inspired cafe.

Fushimia Inari Taisha, is the head Shinto shrine of Inari, the God of rice.  It sits at the base of the mountain known as Inari, and includes over 32,000 sub shrines and 10,000 Torii gates spread over 4km of trails. Torii gates depict the entrance to a sacred site. These gates are often painted vermillion red, an amulet against evil  forces.


Behind the main shrine, is the entrance to the torii gate-covered hiking trail which starts with two dense parallel rows of gates known at Senbon Torii or a thousand Torii gates. Each gate is donated by a business to give thanks to for their prosperity and in hope of good fortune in the future. The company name and date is inscribed on the back of each gate.



As we wandered through the Torii gates, we counted the foxes. Not real ones but two little statues usually positioned either side of a shrine. These foxes (kitsune) are regarded as the messengers of the Inari. Although Andy and I would have loved to do the full circuit, neither girl was keen, so our aim was to get to the Yotsutsuji intersection, roughly halfway up the mountains and the point where the trail splits for the full circuit. This spot also provides great views over Kyoto. Our kitsune count was roughly 160!



On the way down, we veered away from the main Torii trail on to a smaller side trail enjoying the peacefulness and fewer people. We bought a little Torii gate for back home, with Ella and Katy's named written each uprights as well as today's date on the back. A little memory to remind us of this lovely day.

We came across Vermillion's other cafe so stopped for a coffee there too before boarding the train back home. Our day finished with our very own Kimono show!





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