Oh So Promising

When first investigating things to do around Kyoto, Andy and I were keen to try to get out to the city and into the surrounding hills. We found the perfect hike in the Kitayama Mountains from Kibune to Kurama. This hike had it all! A short train trip, a one way 4km hike with many interesting sites along the way and an outdoor onsen to relax in at the end.

We awoke to beautiful blue skies with much of the snow gone and were eager to get going. The so called short train trip was slightly more complicated than we first thought due to different railway lines being owned by various companies. However further investigations revealed we could reach the said station in a single bus trip so off we went.

Ready to purchase the cheaper combined train/onsen ticket, we were told that there was a problem with the track and the train could only go as far as Ichihara Station, two stops before our destination. Undeterred we continued on while discussing possible reasons as to why the train couldn't go further...derailment, car crash, problem with overhead lines, pedestrian accident and so on.

Disembarking from the train, we joined the large group of people waiting for the bus which arrived a short time later. It was a cramped 15 minute ride up to Kibune-guchi station and the start of our hike. Outside of the bus we saw what the 'accident' was - large cedar trees had fallen, thanks to the recent snow, across the train line. It was a hive of active, with chainsaws roaring and very small utes carting away the tree branches plus electricity guys fixing up the wires.

Onwards we trundled, up the small mountain road with steep hills covered with towering cedars on one side and a snow covered rocky stream on the other. It was another world and just beautiful only for the numerous cars and buses passing by. It wasn't only the traffic we needed to dodge, the occasional breeze would dislodge a clump of snow from the branches above and send it crashing to the ground with a thump! An instant ice shower! Thankfully we made it through unscatheed.

WIth the incentive of grape flavoured lollies, we made it to the end of the unexciting part of the hike arriving at the little rural mountain town of Kibune. The track notes indicated that the hike over the ridge started at a small red bridge off to the right. It was easy to spot. However our excitement levels plummeted when we saw this...

There was to be no Oku no in Shrine; no Kinone Sando (path of cedar roots); no Yoshitsune Sekurobe  Ishi (height comparing rock); no Reihoden - the museum housing local fauna and flora; no Yuki Shrine with its enormous Kitayama sugi (pine tree); no Inochi Sculpture representing the god of Kurama love, light and power or Tengu the Long nosed goblin. Andy and I were devastated. The girls were oblivious.

Continuing a little further on we thought we'd look at the Kibune Shrine, the god of water but it too was closed! Eventually we found a small bench by the side of the stream to eat lunch, gather ourselves and re-evaluate our plans. Options were to head back into Kyoto to explore the historic and famous Nijo castle or venture up to Kurama for an outdoor onsen.

With both adults slightly grumpy, we walked back down to Kibune-guchi station trying to decide which path to take for the rest of the afternoon while the girls took great pleasure in throwing snowballs into the stream, watching them bob up and down in the current as they melted. 

By the time we arrived at the station we thought an outdoor onsen may improve our mood so another short bus trip dropped us outside Kurama Onsen. Purchasing tickets we made our way upstairs to the outdoor hot baths. Being gender specific, we separated from Andy and made our way inside.

Now the Japanese Onsens  are fantastic but one must know the strict procedures to follow. Firstly shoes are taken off at the doorway (as is done in all homes). Next is the undressing room where all clothes are left. Then you make your way into the showering part of the onsen. Everyone sits on a small stool, in front of a hand held shower head positioned on the wall above to wash themselves before entering the hot bath. Despite being a little self conscious, the girls love lathering themselves up - doing a much better job than they do at home! Final step is to immerse yourself in the hot water. 

The special thing about today's onsen was that it was outside with snow within arms reach and beautiful views of the mountains and tall cedars. All the disappointment of being unable to do the hike melted away. After a good soaking we dressed before walking  back down to the bus stop, throwing snowballs into the stream once again.

There was only enough time to walk up the lantern lined steps to the gate of the Kurama-dera Temple but not to go inside. It too had been affected by the recent heavy snowfall with trees fallen across the main path.

At the bus stop the girls continued making snowballs although there was no stream to throw them in so snowmen were built instead.  It was a diffeent route home taking the bus to the subway station followed by a change of line. Despite our best laid plans being disrupted we did have an enjoyable day out.