Gem of a Garden

Towards the end of our street Quai de France adjacent to the Porte de France (the western gate from the original fortification)  and halfway to the supermarket we pass a set of gates which lead into the Jardin des Dauphins. Having noticed this path on our numerous trips to get supplies, today we decided to ventured inside.

The small path leads steeply upwards and on our left, a large bronze statue of a lady on horseback looms above us. This is a monument dedicated to Phillis de la Charce, who is referred to as 'the Joan of Arc of the Dauphine'. In 1692, this French lady on horseback with sword in hand, led an army of peasants when Prince Victor-Amadeus II of Savoy seized the Dauphine region.

The gardens were the idea of Jean-Baptiste Dolle, a Grenoble merchant, who in 1785, suggested creating a park within the Bastille fortifications that Duke Lesdiguieres had built. He designed six superimposed terraces with a multitude of stairways and foot paths connecting them. He also built a roman-style house, greenhouses, planted trees, dug wells and carved out hills all while the locals called it the chateau of utter madness due to the extravagant parties held there.

Sadly the park was abandoned during the French Revolution. During the 19th century it was damaged due to the activities of the nearby stone quarry and factories. Thankfully though in the beginning of the 20th century the park was renovated and expanded linking it to the Bastille.

On the first terrace is a spider web which the girls quickly scaled up and down complaining of cold fingers (it was trying to snow at the time!) We then spied a Rapunzel tower and discovered a small spiral staircase inside. Ascending the staircase we emerge higher up with paths leading every which way. Another tunnel staircase led upwards and at the top we overlooked another playground.

More exploring led us to various little lookouts and turrets and more hidden staircases. Continuing up to walk along the top of the walls. Another level of gardens minus the play equipment was discovered plus another even longer staircase. Halfway up this one a large arch let in light and allowed us a glimpse of Grenoble below and the Vercor mountain in the distance. Our explorations ceased at the top of this staircase. The Bastille was another 30 mins climb uphill so we thought we'd leave that for another day and headed back down to continue on with the food shop.