Cinque Terre, the Five Lands - Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore - located on the west coast of Italy are tiny fishing villages who were originally linked by mule trails, or accessed only by boat or rail. Nowadays, a scenic 12km coastal path links these five coastal villages and sounded like a wonderful opportunity for us. However on the eve of our departure from Genoa, we turned our thoughts to planning this next segment of our trip. We were surprised and confused to discover a variety of websites indicating that the coastal trail ranged form being partially to completely closed. Clouds of disappointment hovered over us.
On arriving at the Riomaggiore station, we entered the Cinque Terre information office to find out more and perhaps purchase a map. The lady behind the desk seemed to lack enthusiasm for any tourist activities, and when we enquired about the status of the trails, she simply said they are all closed with no explanation or suggestions. We left feeling more despondent. On meeting our host, Sabina, she informed us that yes the trails are closed. But the two paths north of Riomaggiore are currently being repaired and were inaccessible. However the others are only closed in name, perhaps because they don’t want to staff the gates in winter (less tourists and more risky weather conditions). She continued by saying that in good weather they would be OK to walk. So, we started to understand -- some paths are closed closed, but others are only closed in principle. The disappointment clouds began to lift!
In any case, our full day in the Cinque Terre was not going to be a long, one way hike from north to south along the trail as planned. Instead we caught the train to Vernazza and wandered around the village before seeking out the trail south to Corniglia. We found the start of the trail easily with the temporary fence barrier crossing it, rather than the closed closed gates in Riomaggiore. (So, closed in principle, but there a few other groups walking the trail as we were.) We simply sidestepped this gate and were on our way.
A steep climb up gives us wonderful views over Vernazza. The single trail was dusty and rocky, went up and down stone steps through vineyards, olive groves, patches of forest all with spectacular views over the ocean. We encountered only one area that had sustained a rock slide partially covering the path. The 6km to Corniglia train station took us around 3hrs (including stops). We were disappointed to not find any gelato (again!) in Corniglia.
With most of the afternoon still available, we made a decision to catch the train to Monterosso al Mare so that we could say we had visited all five lands. A fast pace was set (thankfully down the million or so stairs) in order to get to the station in time for the next train.
Monterosso al Mare is a town split in two by a very long beach. We were on the lookout for a lunch spot, and as we have discovered before, there aren't many places open during the low season. Eventually an open shop was discovered and toasted paninis ordered. We took our lunch and sat on the pebbly beach. Rock tower building and stone skipping contests kept us amused until it was time to return to the station to catch the train to the last of the five lands - Manarola.
Manarola will be remembered as the Cinque Terre town with a gelato shop that was open and had gelato!! We celebrated our achievement - visiting all five lands by feasting on our gelato down at the harbour before deciding to walk the high road back to Riomaggiore.
Trudging uphill we were treated to a beautiful sunset over Manarola, luckily offsetting the substitute trail that was adjacent the small busy road. While walking we discussed cooking dinner and having a sunset picnic at the harbour. This hurried our ambling as we raced the sun. Unfortunately the sun was quicker to descend into the horizon than our pasta was to cook but we still made it down in the fading light and enjoyed our picnic. An enjoyable way to spend our last night in Cinque Terre.
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