Tuesday, April 16, 2019

Mountains and Memories of Montserrat

Today we travelled by train an hour north west of Barcelona to Montserrat. As the train chugged along, in the distance we could see the outline of the serrated tips of the Montserrat mountain range rising from the valley floor. Excitement levels increased as we rolled closer with the shape of the individual rock pillars becoming clearer.


 

Disembarking at Montserrat Aeri, we joined the hoards queuing for the cable car ride to the monastery. Luckily we were the last to be bundled into cable car and immediately began the 5 min ride to the top.

 

The views at the top were spectacular but we hadn't come here to look around the monastery, so bought a one way ticket for the Sant Joan funicular and continued to go higher!

Now our hike begins. We take a sharp right immediately after the funicular station and are on our way. Conditions turn out to be much warmer than expected so the beanies and raincoats stay in our bag. At the first junction after a selfie, we veer right before finding ourselves heading downhill and immediately question whether we on the right track. After back tracking, we discover we should have gone left. A good lesson to take more care in reading the signs in future!


The rocky outcrops are huge and stunning. The rough track weaves through forest, traverses huge rock slabs keeping us all on our toes. Andy and I enjoy the beauty of the place immediately while the girls are more concerned about how tired they are or how far we have to go! Ahh the joys!

 

 

In particular Ella is uncomfortable about not knowing exactly what to expect and it's hard work to keep her going in a positive mindset. We step from the track to climb one of these rocky pillars (not to the top though) for fantastic views and is the perfect spot to break for lunch.

 

Post lunch rest, we continue on our way towards Mt Jeroni. We admire the spectacular views at Serra de les Paparres lookout but don't linger. Our path dips into the forest at the head of the valley, crossing a small stream before arriving at the junction - straight on takes up to the highest point of the  Montserrat Mountain range while turning right takes one back to the monastery. Ella notices this and decides to stamp her disapproval about going on. The hike to the top is 25 mins from this point.


Our family splits with Katy and I walking slowly on while Ella and Andy have it out. Without phone reception and out of sight I'm not sure what is happening and whether to continue, what for them to catch up or turn back.  While dithering, Katy and I hear a clattering sound and look around only to spot through the trees, two Iberian Ibex perched on a rock! As we admired these Andy and Ella turn up. Glad to all be back together again, we resume walking only for Ella to start complaining. Having had enough of her whinging, we figured it wasn't too far from the top so suggested that she remained here while we went on.

And so walking on briskly and in peace, we past the Sant Jeroni Chapel before climbing the many, many concrete stairs to the summit. At 1236m, Mt Jeroni is the highest peak in the Montserrat mastiff boasting views from Barcelona, to the Pyrenees to Els Ports and Majorca. Sadly today these were obscured by the haze. Nevertheless the rock formations and shear drops were amazing.

 

 

We returned to find Ella who was still furious that we'd gone up the top and began the walk back down to the monastery. On our way down we spotted a small little grey snake emerging from a tree stump on the edge of the path. A few other tourists stopped to have a peek only for it to get spooked and slitter back into the bushes. Back in the apartment we searched online to discover that it was a Lataste's viper, a highly venomous snake!





The trail took us into a lush green valley until the very end when we descended more and more and more stairs arriving back at the monastery. Conscious of the return train to Barcelona times, and with not much energy left to sightsee around the monastery, we headed straight for the cable car. Exiting this, we arrived at the station with a few minutes to spare. Unfortunately the train was very busy and we missed out on a seat which meant another hour on our feet! Everyone was glad to rest at the apartment before heading out for dinner.


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