Tourist and Shopping in Kyoto

Today our wishlist itinerary included Kiyomizu-dera Temple and grounds; ring making at Glanta; Sannenzaka; Ninenzaka; shopping @ Loft, Don Quijote; Teramachi and Nishiki markets.

We made our way by foot to Kiyomizu-dera following the non tourist route which included walking adjacent to the Otani cemetery! Not surprisingly this World Heritage temple was busy with tourists. We made our way past the Nijo-mon (main entrance); the Sai-mon (west gate); the three tiered pagoda (one of the tallest in Japan); Zuigu-do hall and on to the main spectacle the Hondo (the main hall) perched on a steep cliff of Mt Otawa. Enshrined in the innermost sanctuary of the Hondo is the statue of the eleven headed thousand armed Kannon Bodhisattva, the goddess of mercy. We did not venture in to see this famous Kannon, instead soaked up the great views from the huge veranda / stage. Many travel to pray; to offer money; burn incense or to buy omijuki (paper fortunes). To receive your omijuki first one shakes a mikuji-bo which is a cylinder box with long numbered sticks. The numbered stick is exchanged for the paper fortunes. If the paper fortune turns out to be a bad luck one, this omijuki is tied to a designated spot at the shrine and the bad luck is blown away. Anyway we didn’t actually try this, just watched heaps of others!

From the Hondo, the path winds down past the Okuno-in hall which is directly built over the Otowa-no taki (Otowa Waterfall). We took a small detour to the Koyasu pagoda (this one helps with safe and easy childbirth although not needed in my case) and were treated to panoramic views across the valley to the Hondo. There was no lingering any further. We ambled straight down choosing not to join the long line of those waiting to taste water from the three streams at the Otowa-no taki thought to provide longevity, health and successful studies.

Crossing our tracks, we merged with the throng of tourists clogging up Matsubdori, the main street to the temple. There were many shops to puruse on the way down while warming up at the same time! We turned into the well known traditional narrow cobblestone streets of Sannenzaka followed by Ninenzaka with the aim of finding Glanta, a ring making shop made popular by instagram.

Arriving at Glanta, we were ushered upstairs for a ring making session. The girls and I each chose a ring to make while Andy watched on. This process included heating up the ring; using a hammer to make the design; ruffing it up (in my case for the antique look) and a final polish. From start to finish the whole process took about an hour. We were all pleased with our creations.

As we meandered through the Higashiyama District the impressive Yasaka Pagoda dominates the skyline. This beautiful 5 storey pagoda is the last remnant of Hokanji Temple. Close by is the Yasaka Temple, dedicated to Shomen Kongo (nickname Koshin-san), a Buddhist guardian warrior with healing power and the three wise monkeys. The colourful balls are talisman known as Kukuriuzaru which represent a monkey with tied hands and feet to the back. This symbolises self-control and the tradition says that to fulfil a wish, one must give up to another desire (by writing on a slip of paper and placing it inside).

While walking through the Gion district on the lookout for a geisha or two, we saw the quirky Yasui Konpiragu shrine with its large enkiri or enmusubi power stone. People are said to flock to this shrine to pray for breaking off bad relationships and initiating good ones. One writes down their wishes on a white paper amulet (katashiro), crawls through the hole in the stone and then back again before pinning the katashiro on the megalith! Despite the stone covered in white katashiro, we didn't see anyone performing the ritual.

Crossing over the Kamo River the crowds were building the closer we got to the shopping district where Katy and Ella had various stores on their to-visit list. On top of Katy's list was to find Sonny Angels which we managed to fluke in the first store - they were replacing the stock while we were there! After a bit more shopping, coffee was required. 

Following refreshments at the reliable Starbucks, our group split up. Ella wanted to resize her newly created ring and Katy had more shops to visit in the Teramachi covered shopping arcade. We had varying amount of success before calling it a day and heading back to our machiya on the train. We enjoyed a fantastic dinner of sushi / sashimi at a local conveyor belt restaurant.